![]() ![]() Lock up and center the slot hole in the drill press and now use your 1/16" drill to cut the slot. Not so critical when yanking the old ejector but this is really critical point to remember now. Remember to use a PADDED vise or you will really bugger up your brand new ejector! You can just chuck up a 1/16" drill bit,drop it into the hole at slow speed and drill the lock slot there and then, but remember, one slip while doing this and you risk trashing your frame.Īnyway, once the location is marked, remove the frame from the drill press vise and remove the ejector from the frame same way as you did before, Run the drill bit into the centered hole just deep enough to mark the ejector. I use a #54 number drill to mark the ejector. Now you will need to mark the ejector pin slot location on the new ejector.Ĭhuck the frame with its' new fitted ejector into a drill press vise, left side up, and center the ejector pin hole below the drill. ![]() Never, ever, ever make the adjustments to the frame holes!Ī trashed frame is a lot more expensive to replace than a trashed ejector! If it the ejector fits but stands too tall from the frame then shorten the ejector posts with a fine file until it sets down on the frame. It will probably not fit and you will need to stone the ejector posts until the ejector slides into the holes with just a bit of force.Ī tap or two from a plastic or rawhide hammer may be neccessary to fully seat the ejector. Once the old ejector is free, clean the frame holes and test fit the new ejector. Use a Butane/propane torch and a small flame tip to heat the ejector to smoky hot, this will break the Loctite bond. It may take a bit of pull force but if the ejector seems to be binding or just plain doesn't want to come free it may be secured with Loctite. Pull the frame straight up and away from the ejector. Lock the ejector into a padded vise, frame facing upward. Use a 1/16" pin punch to drift the ejector pin out. ![]()
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